Detailed information is pending, but initial reports indicate that a man became “ledged in” last night and spent the nigh high in the cliffs. Early this morning, friends attempted to talk and guide the man down and he fell 70′. He apparently landed on both feet, suffering serious fractures above the ankles on both legs and damaged his pelvis.

You can read the KSL article here:

We will post more info when it’s available…enclosed is a video clip…

Helicopter Rescue in Maple Canyon from Jason Stevens on Vimeo.

Developing routes with Noah this spring has been great. We bought a Hilti TE 4A for him this winter…small enough for his tiny frame but packed with enough power that he only has to carry one battery. He has really caught the vision of new route development and I think we will see good things from him in coming years!

The Red Apple Cottage in Ft. Green is a really fantastic place to stay, super affordable and caters to climbers. It’s a great little piece of history…a house that has been in the owners family for generations, restored to reflect the pioneer heritage of the area. Totally cozy.

Visit their link below and give them a call. You’ll be glad you did…

http://www.redapplecottage.com/

We’ve been silent for a couple of months but we have a good excuse. The Maple Leaf Climbing Shop, which has been in Ephraim for 14 years, has moved to main street!

We have made a TON of fantastic improvements to the shop – you really have to see it to believe it. We increased our inventory by at least 100%, added a bike shop and mechanic shop, skate equipment, shoes and apparel…it’s a full-service outdoor shop now.

Stop in and see us on your next trip to Maple. We are only 15 minutes from the canyon.

Check in and “like” us onfacebook at:

www.facebook.com/pipedreamadventuresports

Hope to see you there!

Pipe Dream Adventure Sports
327 South Main
Ephraim, UT 84627
435.283.4644
435.340.0442
jason@cut.net

Above: Dane inputs inventory into the new computer system before opening day

Matthew Selman on Tachycardia.

The first time I came to Maple Canyon I was blown away by Heart Rock, the massive arete that marks the beginning of the conglomerate–of Maple as we know it.  Every time since I have looked up as I drive by, craning my neck to take in the whole formation as it appears through gaps in the foliage. To me, Heart Rock has always been to Maple as El Cap is to the Valley. Though the scale is different, still both formations stand as icons in my mind; they are symbols of landscapes I have climbed and loved. Amazingly enough, however, Heart Rock did not see a first ascent until this year.

In the heyday of Maple’s youth, when the Provo hardmen were on the prowl for new routes, the legendary Tim Hannig drilled a chain anchor atop the Heart’s prow and rappelled down the overhang to scope what would certainly have been the proudest, airiest, most badass line in Maple–then or now. The details of his scouting mission are patchy, but in my mind’s eye I imagine his experience being similar to mine the first time I rapped off the top: tiptoeing backward into a gaping gulf of exposure, finally hanging free, spinning on the rope. Mind reeling, too, from the size and scope of the line. Stop. Attach jumars, climb back to the chains: this line is not for you.

So Hannig bailed.

Time passed. Jason Stevens came and went, anonymous others came and went. The Heart waited, and it still waits. In my mind it remains the proudest undone line in all of Maple.

Fortunately though, the mortals among us can still have a great adventure while we wait for the right talent to unlock the Heart. Indeed, each time as I drove up Maple and stared up at the prow, my eye was also drawn to an improbable spot of vertical rock in an otherwise overhanging badland. The gentle slabs forming the toe of the formation lead up and, if one looks to climber’s left, a weakness can be seen. In May of this year I followed that weakness to establish Heart Rock’s first route, hopefully the first of many to come.

Matthew Selman and Jason Stevens at the crux of Tachycardia.

Presenting Tachycardia, 5.8. And now, the beta:

Approach: Park at the obvious pullout/camping spot directly below Heart Rock (200 yards below Anti-Gravity Rock). Cross the streambed and cut immediately right, skirting a large boulder, until you come to a drainage. I discovered a geocache in an ammo can here by accident, and if you find this cache you know you’re in the right spot. Work up this drainage, east of Heart Rock, until you are nearly level with the base of the Rock’s toe. Bushwhack up 50 yards or so until you are at the base. The route starts here.

Pitch 1: Vena Cava, 5.5. Climb directly up the toe of Heart Rock through great jugs and big cobbles. Belay at a sloping ledge with two bolts. 30 meters.

Pitch 2: The Left Ventricle, 5.6. A large cobble is visible above the belay ledge–aim to the left of this feature. This pitch moves constantly left to land you at a two-bolt belay at the western end of the headwall. 25 meters.

Pitch 3: Tachycardia, 5.8. The first bolt is slightly right of the belay, where a short bulge forms the crux of the route. Above here, traverse left to find a great exposed line up the headwall. After a blank sandstone section near the top, an optional two-bolt belay can be used to avoid rope drag. From here, follow three bolts to chains. If you desire, unrope here and scramble across to the top of the prow.

Descent: Rappel to the base of the headwall (30 meters). From here it is possible to make a single 30-meter rappel to the ground (rappel to the west, into the gully between Heart Rock and Changing the Stripes). Walking off is also an option, though not recommended.

Rack: 12 draws, belay/rappel gear, 60 meter rope or longer, helmet.

Overview of the Heart Rock area, looking cross-canyon from the south.

-Matt Selman

Photos courtesy of Randyl Nielson Photography (nielsonphoto.com OR facebook.com/randylnielsonphoto)

Noah and I burned the midnight oil tonight getting guidebooks packaged and labeled for shipment tomorrow AM. If you pre-ordered a guide they are ON THE WAY!

A big thanks to all of you for your patience!

Jason & Noah

News concerning the Maple Canyon Guidebook:

Good News: Darrens guidebook went to the printer a few days ago! We are finally there!!

Bad News: It is about 10 days behind schedule. The ship date is now May 10.

The Good news about the Bad News: The delays were mostly related to advertising and technicalities. Those delays allowed Darren to add about 25 last minute routes, get some extra good photography and polish things up.

The 10 extra days will be worth it!

Jason

For reference, there are three black water streaks on the east face; The Quickie Mart 5.10c climbs on the left edge of the left-most water streak on the margine of the wildly overhanging south face. Fun with Flanders 5.8 climbs the middle water streak. Butter That Bacon 5.6 climbs the right water streak.

Marge’s Marauders 5.8 Climbs between the left and middle streak. Ascenders vertical ground to a horizontal weakness and a brief overhang. Also very fun! The name is a play on Merrill’s Marauders who were a special ops group that invaded Burma during WWII. FA: Jared Nielson 4.19.12

Release the Hounds 5.9 is a super fun route up the right hand side of the east face of Simpson Rock. It starts on the slab, trends up and right, then works left and up to the anchors. 70′. It’s located about 20 feet right of “Butter That Bacon” or right of the right-most water streak. FA: Jason Stevens 4.19.12

The East Face now has four fantastic routes 5.9 and under and is a perfect place for beginning leaders with a well rounded assortment of beginners routes. They have short approaches, are easy to find, are well protected and have a fantastic view.

Enjoy!

Jason

John spent all day saturday making improvements and upgrades to the routes and anchor stations in the Schoolroom.

Redemption of Madonna

• Bolts: Tightened loose bolts, added lactite.
• Anchors: Added new rapid links and chains.

Big Kahuna

• Bolts: Tightened loose bolts, added loctite. Third bolt was a spinner and bent -replaced it.
• Anchors: Loctite and tightened both anchor nuts. Added quick links and chain links, made both chains hang even.